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| The Woodcrafter Page - Copyright © 2004 -
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| The Woodcrafter Page - Copyright © 2004 -
Keith Davies. All rights reserved. |
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Pine
Kneehole Desk
Here is the orginal article from the
July - August 1955
Deltagram
ROCKWELL MANUFACTURING COMPANY - A DELTACRAFT PULICATION
This handsome desk
styled in pine will fit in with knotty
pine rooms, dens, or even with Early
American furnishings. Because of its
practical size, it is especially useful
where space is at a premium.
The major portion of this project is
constructed of knotty pine plywood which
is easily available from almost any
lumber dealer. Because of its plywood
construction, it is extremely strong and
durable.
All three panels are cut to the same
size. Cross cleats are screwed and glued
in place when desk is assembled. Edging
pieces are glued on the fronts of the
panels to cover the core stock. Dado
grooves, 3/4 inch wide by |
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1/4 inch deep, are cut for the
drawer slide frames. These frames are held
together with 1/4 x 3/8 inch tongue and grooves.
The assembled frames are glued and screw fastened
to the sides.
The top frame is also assembled with 1/4 x 3/8
tongue and groove joints and is then screw
fastened to the side panels and the back
stretcher. All counterbored holes for these
screws are plugged with 3/8 inch dowel plugs and
sanded flush.
Drawers are of the conventional tongue and groove
construction with a 1/8 x 1/8 tongue on the
fronts and a 1/4 x 1/4 tongue on the backs, see
drawing for details. The two fronts for the file
drawer are doweled together to form one large
drawer front. The panel raising molding on the
drawers can be made up the circular saw with a
hollow ground blade (Photo #3) or with the D-214
special panel raising cutter on the shaper (Photo
#I).
The base trim is cut to shape as indicated in the
drawing on either the hand or scroll saw. After
cutting, it is screw fastened in place by
counterboring holes for #8 x 1-1/4 flat head wood
screws. The holes are then plugged with 3/8 inch
dowel plugs and sanded flush.
Drawer handles (not shown in the photo), line
drawing Fig. A should be of period
design-preferably pierced or plain brass
Chippendale pulls. These can be purchased in most
any hardware store.
For the finish, apply a coat of light oak
penetrating oil stain, two or three thin coats of
white shellac, mixed half alcohol and half
shellac, sanding between coats lightly. For a
smooth dull finish, use a coat of spar varnish
rubbed down with pumice stone and linseed oil.
Repeat the rubbing operation with rottenstone and
linseed oil for a satin finish. Should you want
to avoid the rubbing operations you can now get a
rubbed effect varnish. Wax in either case to
protect and preserve the finish. |

(Photo
No. 2)
If you decide to use solid stock
for the sides instead of plywood,
use the glue joint cutter,
#35-131, for the joints. |
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(Photo
No. 3)
The raised panel moulding on the
drawer fronts can be made on the
circular saw with a hollow ground
blade with the arbor tilted about
10 degrees. |
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(Photo
No. 4)
The moulding can be made on the
spindle shaper using the D-214
special panel raising cutter. |
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| Bill of Materials: |
No. of
Pieces |
Name |
Size |
| 1 |
Top (Plywood) |
¾ x 15½ x 31 |
| 3 |
Sides (Plywood) |
¾ x 14½ x 27 |
| 3 |
Sides (Plywood) |
¾ x 14½ x 27 |
| 2 |
Frame Lengths |
¾ x 2¾ x 33 |
| 2 |
Frame Ends |
¾ x 2 x 11¼ |
| 1 |
Back Board |
¾ x 6½ x 33 |
| 1 |
Plywood Back |
¼ x 13 x 19 |
| 3 |
Drawer Frame Fronts |
¾ x 1½ x 12½ |
| 6 |
Drawer Frame Runners |
¾ x 1½ x 16 |
| 3 |
Drawer Frame Back Pieces |
¾ x 1½ x 10 |
| 1 |
Drawer Frame Front |
¾ x 1½ x 20¾ |
| 2 |
Drawer Frame Runners |
¾ x 1½ x 15¼ |
| 1 |
Drawer Front |
¾ x 3¼ x 12½ |
| 1 |
Drawer Back |
½ x 1-15/16 x 11-3/8 |
| 3 |
Drawer Bottoms (Plywood) |
¼ x 11-3/8 x 15¼ |
| 2 |
Drawer Fronts |
¾ x 7-1/8 x 12½ |
| 2 |
Drawer Sides |
½ x 13-11/16 x 16 |
| 1 |
Drawer back |
½ x 11-3/8 x 12-1/16 |
| 3 |
Dowels |
3/8 Diam. x 2 |
|
No. of
Pieces |
Name |
Size |
| 2 |
Cleat Ends for top |
¾ x 2¾ x 15½ |
| 1 |
Cleat End for top |
¾ x 2¾ x 36 |
| 2 |
Cleat Ends-sides |
¾ x 2¾ x 27 |
| 2 |
Cleat Ends-middle |
¾ x 2¾ x 26¼ |
| 4 |
Base Trim |
¾ x 4 x 17¾ |
| 1 |
Base Trim |
¾ x 4 x 15 |
| 1 |
Base Trim |
¾ x 2½ x 4 |
| 1 |
Drawer Frame Back |
¾ x 1½ x 18¼ |
| 1 |
Drawer Front |
¾ x 3¼ x 20¾ |
| 4 |
Drawer Sides |
½ x 2-11/16 x
16 |
| 1 |
Drawer Back |
½ x 1-15/16 x 20-3/16 |
| 1 |
Drawer Bottom (Plywood) |
¼ x 16¼ x 20-3/16 |
| 1 |
Drawer Front |
¾ x 5 x 12½ |
| 7 |
Drawer Back |
½ x 3-11/16 x 11-3/8 |
| 2 |
Drawer Sides |
½ x 4-7/16 x 16 |
| 12 |
Flat Head Wood Screws |
#8 x 1½ |
| 4 |
Flat Head Wood Screws |
#6 x 1½ |
| 20 |
Flat Head Wood Screws |
#8 x 1½ |
| 8 |
Dowels |
5/16 Diam. x
1½ |
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(Photo
No. 5)
Top edges of the drawer sides can
be easily rounded off on the
circular saw using the moulding
cutterhead and #35-202 cutters. |
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(Photo
No. 6)
The scroll design of the bottom
trim can be cut on the scroll
saw, or on the band saw as shown
above using a 1/4 inch blade. |
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(Photo
No. 7)
Moulding edge of the top is being
made on the circular saw with the
moulding cutterhead and #35-103
cutters. |
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* * *Click on the drawings above to
download higher resolution pictures. * * * * |
*********** WARNING***********
Read my page on safety
before building this item.
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