Maple BREAKFAST SET

Here is the orginal article straight from
Book No. 4505, PRACTICAL DELTA PROJECTS
NEW & NOVEL THINGS TO MAKE, BOOK 5
DELTA MFG. DIVISION

THIS practical set for breakfast nook or dinette features a draw top table which gives excellent accommodations with a minimum of bother in making the extension. With the top partly drawn, as shown in one of the photos, the extension makes a comfortable, if not mannerly, arm rest for perusing the morning paper. The manner in which the extension is made is a bit different than the usual draw top table. As shown in the lower photo, each leaf is attached to two supports. These supports are fitted with metal pins, the pins riding in a pair of grooves cut in the two longitudinal members of the frame. A delightful set in Colonial styling for the breakfastnook or dinette. In order to work properly, it is necessary to fit the pins in correct relation to the grooves. Best results can be obtained if a full-size drawing is made of the support and bearer, as shown in Fig. 2 on pa following page. If a paper pattern is made of the support, the pattern can be manipulated over the drawing of the bearer thus checking the pin positions and the shape of the track. It is obvious that each track must have the same amount of "lift" 7/8 in.) so that the draw top will be level with the main top when extended. Once the correct shape of the track has been plotted, it is a simple matter to cut a plywood pattern and rout the grooves on the drill press. Fig. I shows the general construction of the table framework, which is quite simple. The ends of the rails are cut with the saw table level, but with the gage set over 3 degrees. This gives the legs the required outward tilt. The leg stock is 1-3/4 in square. Each piece should be carefully centered, since the turning is largely confined to knocking off the corners. After turning, the legs are cut to the proper length with a compound cut, the saw table being tilted 3 degrees and the miter gage set over 3 degrees. Each leg is held in place by means of a hanger bolt fitting into a cleat which spans the rails. This is a simple and substantial method of construction. but can be discarded in favor of dowelled or tenon joints if desired. Through dowels are particularly simple to fit, and, if plugged, fit in nicely with the colonial motif.

Draw Top Arrangement Is Simple and Foolproof Both bearers are sawed to fit and routed to take the pins in the draw top supports. The bearers are fitted into shallow dado cuts on the inner side of the end rails, adjacent to the openings which take the supports. Each bearer is held with two screws, one at each end, inserted through the rail near the top edge. Fig. 4 shows the assembly of the A pattern of the grooves in the bearer is made to permit routing on the drill press. Since the work is symmetrical, the pattern need be only a little over hall full length. extension leaves. It will be necessary to remove one of the supports from each leaf to permit fitting, after which the support is again screw-fastened in place. Two cross pieces are fitted in place across the table, the main top being screw-fastened to these. The chairs are made up as shown in Figs. 12, 13, and 14. It is advisable to draw a rough full-size plan, showing all centerlines, before sawing wood. It will be noted that the legs and back spindles are approximately the same, but vary a little in length. As with the table, the turnings are worked from the square into the round. The shaping of the chair seats can be easily done by mounting the work on the outer end of the lathe, as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. After turning, the edges are well sanded down, especially toward the front edge. Compound band sawing is required in making the headpiece. Drilling the various holes at compound angles in the seat as required for the legs and back Spindles, is the most troublesome job in making these chairs. The set-up is somewhat simplified by the angles and lines shown in Fig. 12. In each case, the drill table is tilted as indicated. The line drawn from the hole should be lined up with the drill. This takes care of the compound angle without the need of blocking up one edge of the work. The finish on all pieces is most easily done with two coats of shellac followed by a coat of wax. A water or oil stain should be used to give the wood a pleasing red-brown tone. The edges of the table should be sanded to give the appearance of wear. especially at the comers. Two or three narrow strips of felt should be glued on the underside of the main top at either end so that when the leaves are returned to position they will not be scratched on the underside of the main top

*********** WARNING***********
Read my page on safety before building this item.