What does your
backyard need - more shade? ... more privacy? ...
more beauty? This latticed summer house lends
itself to all these requirements. It's big enough
for in-the-shade picnicking or relaxing, lends
itself to seclusion (especially if climbing roses
or vines are planted to grow gracefully up the
lattice work), and it will add that extra touch
of outdoor charm and beauty to your yard that
women particularly enjoy. It will make an
excellent playhouse for the children too.
If desired, you can convert this summer house
into a winter time storage shed by lining the
inside with building paper.
The frame work of the house is made of 2x4 stock
with crossed slates or lattice strips 5/16-inches
thick by 1½-inches wide, angled at 45 degrees
and spaced about 6 inches apart. The double
plates on the sides to support the rafters are
made of 2x4 stock ripped 3-inches wide. Two by
four uprights are used as corner posts. Assemble
the two long sides first before placing upright,
including the oblong window openings, see side
view of drawing. Before placing the sides in
position, paint the bottom portion with a wood
preservative to prevent rotting.
Raise the assembled sides to an upright position
and hold these together with temporary supports
until all lattice pieces have been nailed in
place on the front and back of the structure.
In place of the conventional straight rafters,
curved lifters can be made from 2x6 stock for an
unusual design effect. For a 6-foot wide house,
the rafters are laid out as indicated in the
front view of the drawing. Two arcs are scribed,
one with a 51-inch radius and the other with a
34-inch radius, a flat portion of 2-7/8 inches
joins both arcs. Before band sawing the curved
portion, make the three angle cuts. The ridge end
is cut first, with the miter gage set at 80
degrees, see Photo No. 2. With the same miter
gage setting, (80 degrees) make the opposite
angle cue of the rafter, Photo No. 3. Because of
the shallow angle of the rafter that rests on the
double plate, it is necessary to make this cut on
the band saw, Photo No. 4. After all angle cuts
are made, proceed to cut the top curve of the
rafter, Photo No. 5. Space the rafters on 24-inch
centers, toe nailing the top edge of the rafter
to the ¾x6 inch ridge board. One by six or one
by eight shearing is next nailed to the rafters
with building paper over the sheeting and a 90
pound roofing paper over that. A 3 or 4inch
aluminum ridge strip completes the roof.
Apply a thorough coating of wood preservative
over the entire structure before painting. Finish
paint with an outside paint color of yaw choice.
The first angle cut (A) of the curved rafters is
made on the circular saw with the miter gage set
at 80 degrees.
With the same miter gage setting (80 degrees) the
short angle (B) is cut on the circular saw as
Because of the extreme angle of angle (C), it has
to he cut free hand on the band saw. For a fast
smooth cutting blade use the skip tooth.
A ¼-inch, No. 28-884, skip tooth blade is used
for cutting the curved portion of the 2x6