We bet that very few people, even expert craftsmen, will be able to guess how you achieved this unique pattern of contrasting woods in a lamp base. It's not an inlay! The pattern runs all the way through the stock.
You do it by transplanting a whole section of one block of wood into another block of a different color. By using blocks of the same size and cutting a scrolled pattern from both of them simultaneously, you can interchange the sections and make a pair of lamps with the design reversed.
We used walnut for the dark wood and white maple for the contrast. Both are 3-1/4" square. If this size is not available, make a block by gluing four sections of four quarter inch material together. Draw the scroll design (Fig. 2) on a sheet of paper using the squares method for use as a sawing guide. Tack the two blocks together at the ends with brads. Photo No. 2
shows the scrolled cut being made on the band saw with a 1/8" blade. Feed the stock very slowly to insure getting a clean cut on both pieces. If the feed is too fast, you will get a bellied effect on the pieces and they will not fit interchangeably.
Insert one scrolled section into the other block as shown in photo No. 3. Clamp the pieces together and check to see if the fit is right; if so, glue the sections together using a thinned glue. The saw kerfs might show openings when the pieces are clamped; this can be remedied by cutting the large section apart at the dotted lines shown in Fig. 1. Re-glue the block and the fit will be better.
After the glue has set thoroughly, the block is cut in half to make a hole for wiring the lamp (photo No. 4). joint the cut surfaces so they will fit back together perfectly before cutting a groove 7/16" wide by 7/32" deep in each section as shown in photo No. 5. Glue the sections back together and you will have a square hole through the block in which you insert a 1/8" pipe to hold the wire. Now you are ready to put the block in the lathe. Insert square plugs into the holes in the ends of the block for centering the drive and cup center of the lathe. Turn the block down to the shape shown in the drawing and photo No. 6.
Contrasting woods are also used on the two platform base pieces. For the maple stem use a walnut base and white maple sub-base. Reverse for the other lamp. Photo No. 7 shows a hole being bored in the base to receive the electric cord. The brass fitting between the stem and the lamp harp can be bought or it can be turned on a wood lathe using tungsten alloy tipped chisels.
Clean and sand all pieces with 3-0 and 6-0 garnet paper while they are still in the lathe. Finish natural with two thin coats of white shellac then a coat of rubbed-effect varnish. A piece of felt on the bottom of the lamp will prevent it from scratching furniture. A 22" diameter shade is recommended.

Bill of Materials

(Photo No. 2)
Cutting both sections simultaneously on the band saw. Be sure to feed very slowly to get the straightest cuts. A 1/8" blade with a little set should be used.

(Photo No. 3)
Inserting the scrolled walnut section into the white maple block. You should get a perfect fit. If kerfs show, treat as outlined in the explanation.

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(Photo No. 7)
A ¼" hole being bored in the platform base to carry the wiring. A handscrew is a good holding device for this drill press operation. Note the counterbored hole for fastening a locknut on 1/8" pipe.

(Photo No. 4)
After the sections have been glued together and allowed to dry for at least 24 hours, the block is cut apart with the plainest side up. The cut surfaces are then cleaned up on the jointer.

(Photo No. 5)
Since the drill press won't bore all the way through the lamp base, the hole needed for the electric cord is made with a dodo set on the circular saw. Use two outside 1/8" cutters and one 1/16" and one 1/8" inside.

(Photo No. 6)
Rough turning the lamp base in the lathe with a gouge. After turning to the proper shape and size, sand thoroughly. Shellac and varnish can be applied while it is still in the lathe.